OUR 3-WEEK, FIRST-TIME, VISIT TO THE BIG ISLAND
Over the years, we have been blessed with opportunities to travel to some wonderful tropical places - including all of the Hawaiian Islands - except, until now, the Big Island.
We researched and planned this trip for over a year, and eventually came up with an itinerary that turned out to be perfect for us. This truly is a very BIG island! In three week's time, we saw so much, did so much, experienced so much, that I hardly know how to begin.
Obviously, I can't share everything - that would take volumes - so I'll just be covering the highlights, and will
welcome any questions you have regarding any particular place or event.
We researched and planned this trip for over a year, and eventually came up with an itinerary that turned out to be perfect for us. This truly is a very BIG island! In three week's time, we saw so much, did so much, experienced so much, that I hardly know how to begin.
Obviously, I can't share everything - that would take volumes - so I'll just be covering the highlights, and will
welcome any questions you have regarding any particular place or event.
June 22, 2016
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| Hello Hawaii |
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| Goodbye Portland |
My husband and I are both nurses - I am retired, he is still "plugging away". When on vacation, we prefer to rent private homes/villas - away from the crowds - vs. staying at condos or resorts. Our priorities, when choosing accommodations, include: a safe location - private, quiet, very clean home - beautiful view - covered lanai with comfortable outdoor furniture
(we spend our evenings reading on the lanai)- comfortable bed -
nice shower - well-appointed kitchen (we cook most of our meals ourselves)
(we spend our evenings reading on the lanai)- comfortable bed -
nice shower - well-appointed kitchen (we cook most of our meals ourselves)
These are the three houses we rented on our Big Island trip:
1st week - June 22 to June 29: "Kona Heavens House", Kailua-Kona
This lovely, tastefully furnished, exquisitely decorated, custom home was just perfect for us. Nestled into a quiet tree-lined neighborhood (we never saw or heard a neighbor), "Kona Heavens" is close to the airport (15 minutes), close to grocery stores, centrally located for exploring the west side of the island - and yet high enough up the hill (1000' elevation) to be cooled by a soft breeze (that also keeps the bugs and mosquitoes away). The lanai overlooks a beautiful infinity pool, surrounded by an acre of lush fruit trees and fragrant flowering shrubs.
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| Front door ("our" jeep parked in driveway) |
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| Back door leading out to the lanai |
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| Plumeria reflected in infinity pool. A multitude of colorful, chirping birds often lined the edge of the pool |
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Delightfully relaxing jacuzzi tub
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| Very Comfortable king-size bed |
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| "Our very own" Avocado tree - YUM! |
2nd week - June 29 to July 6: "Coral Pool House", Kapoho
The "Coral Pool House" is SO special! It is very quiet, comfortable, and well-appointed. And then there's that view - OH MY GOODNESS! From the lanai, from the kitchen, from the living room, and even from the bed, you look out over the amazing tide pools.
We usually took part of everyday to do some sightseeing - north to Hilo and the waterfalls, and a couple of days to tour Volcano National Park. But we always began and/or ended our days by snorkeling the tide pools. For us, there is just nothing more peaceful, or enjoyable, than effortlessly gliding through calm, clear water while a multitude of colorful fish dart around and beneath you.
We'd read some pretty negative comments about the Kapoho Tide Pools, and the Hilo area in general, so were a little trepidatious about our decision to stay on the east side of the island for a week. As it turned out, it was a FABULOUS decision, and one of the highlights of our 3-week Big Island adventure! The east side of the island is breathtakingly beautiful, and we're SO thankful we didn't miss the opportunity to explore it, AND the Kopoho Tide Pools!
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| View from the lanai |
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View from the living room
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| Coffee at sunrise on the lanai - SO peaceful! 3rd week - July 6 to July 13: "Maka Nui", Napo'opo'o Road, Captain Cook
The sight that met us when we first opened the stained-glass front door of "Maka Nui" nearly took our breath away. It is an exceptionally lovely home – with ornate furnishings and exquisite artwork, a fabulous Jacuzzi tub, a huge double shower, a well-appointed kitchen, and a wonderfully comfy king-size bed.
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The beautiful, rambling interior is surrounded by a screened-in lanai that looks out across the green hillside down onto Kealakekua Bay. We so enjoyed our evenings on the lanai reading – a delightful cool breeze blowing up from the sea, the faint song of the coqui competing with the Hawaiian music we had softly playing in the background.
The grounds are gorgeous: acres of coffee trees, fruit trees, and fragrant flowers, with a much-appreciated impeccably-maintained swimming pool next to the house.
We loved this part of the island – so very lush and tropical. "Maka Nui" is very private, very quiet, and very safe. Located down from the Captain Cook area, on Napo’opo’o road, it is off the beaten path, yet not very far from good beaches, good snorkeling, shopping, sightseeing, etc. We SO enjoyed our stay there!
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Living room
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| Loved the sound of the wind rustling through the bamboo groves |
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| Waimea has some beautiful, old churches |
Following the advice of a local shop owner, we had lunch at "Village Burgers" in Waimea. Hands down, the best/tastiest/juiciest hamburger we have EVER had!!! That, coupled with fresh sushi from KTA (our favorite Big Island grocery store chain), made for a mouth-watering feast!
From Waimea, we headed north on highway 250 - through the quaint little town of Hawi (pronounced Havee) - then east on a charming, narrow, winding road - with one-way bridges, and enchanting canopies of floral and vine-laden trees. At the end of the road is the Pololu Valley Overlook - a beautiful vista, but we didn't dare try to make our way down the slippery, muddy "path" to the beach!
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| BEST BURGERS EVER!!! |
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| statue of King Kameamea |
We returned to Kailua-Kona via highway 270 ("land of the mega resorts"), stopping to check out the various beaches, and snorkel spots we'd read about during our research.
Highlights from our tours of the eastside of the island:
We loved the east side - with its many, many shades of green! There is so much to see and experience on this verdant side of the island. These are just a few of the many highlights of
our east side tours:
Rainbow Falls
We also visited 'Akaka Falls, but it was too misty for photos. This short, very picturesque, walk follows a paved trail that leads to the 'Akaka Falls and Kahuna Falls view points. The lush rain forest cathedral is filled with the roar of the falls, and the chirping of thousands of tiny coqui frogs.
We found this beautiful set of waterfalls (unknown name) right in the heart of Hilo
We had been told not to miss "Ken's House of Pancakes" in Hilo. We couldn't imagine what could be so great about a pancake house, but decided to give it a try. Oh my, this diner - sort of a "Dennys" with a Hawaiian twist - is open 24/7, has an AMAZING menu, and the waitresses are full of the Aloha spirit. We loved it!
We thoroughly enjoyed this event!
The dancing was amazing! We
especially loved watching the adorable keiki - SO talented! During a break from the dancing, we each had a delicious plate lunch from one of the many on-site food vendors, while browsing through the various booths, and mingling with the locals. A fun day!
Pahoa
While staying at the Coral Pool House in Kapoho, we did all of our grocery shopping in Pahoa - a quaint little town with a sort of "old west" vs. "hippy" vibe.
The market in Pahoa had a nice selection of poke (which we love), and we could never resist getting a tub of fresh poke to take "home" with us. I think our favorite poke though was from Da Poke Shack - in both Kailua-Kona and Captain Cook. We especially liked the Wasabi, and Sesame flavors.
Sometimes we would take the "back roads" on our return to Kapoho from Pahoa: Pohoiki Road to 137 - a drive we really enjoyed. The very narrow, often one-lane, road winds through lovely tunnels of vine and floral-draped trees (Pictures absolutely just can't capture the incredible, natural beauty of this area). One day we even saw a wild boar!
We discovered some charming old churches along the way
This next church is another painted church
(much like the famous one down by Pu'uhonua O Honaunau National Park).
HT said the reindeer hotdog he got at a roadside stand near Kapoho was delicious - especially
with the coconut and jalapeno sauce. I'll take his word for it :)
Volcano National Park
We toured the park on two different days, and were blessed with good weather on both days. In fact, other than some rain showers during the evening and at night (ok - one night we had torrential rain - which we found delightful, actually, from our place in the hot tub on the lanai), we had good weather most of the time we were on the east side.
The first day we browsed through the Visitor's Center, and the Jagger's Museum, and walked through the Thurston Lava Tube.
Views of Kilauea Caldera from Jagger's Museum
On the second day we drove the "Chain of Craters Road", stopping now and then to take in the sights. Walking through the stark landscape is almost surreal - imagining it as it once was - a powerful, flowing, molten river.
New life
The impressive lava arch at the end of the Chain of Craters Road.
Punalu'u Beach Park
Even though we knew there were most likely lots of turtles in the waters off this beach and, in spite of the fact that there was a life guard in attendance, we still were not tempted in the least to venture out among the choppy water and rolling waves. (This photo doesn't really show the wave action but, trust me, it was rough!)
We were so hoping to spot some honu resting on the black sand beach, and we were not to be disappointed!
Awww - Turtle Love
And, yes, the sand was very black, AND very hot!
Ka Lae (southern-most point in the United States
It was VERY windy out on the point (note shape of wind-blown tree), but that didn't stop the adrenaline junkies from jumping off the 40' cliff into the sea! I was surprised at how young many of the jumpers were - some not yet even into their teens!!!
Back on the west side for our 3rd, and final week on the Big Island
Highlights from our tours along the midwest to southwest portion of the island:
Ali'i Drive, Kailua-Kona - we enjoyed walking along the sea wall (which also provides a nice sitting area for people watching, and taking in the views), past colorful, lively outdoor restaurants, and browsing through the cute little shopping plazas.
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| Ali'i Drive Our daughter and son-in-law joined us for our 3rd week on the Big Island, and they stayed at Magic Sands on Ali'i drive in a wonderful 3rd-floor condo (#302), with a fabulous view
probably every bit as good as the ones we had at Village Burger in Waimea!  "Greenwell Coffee Farm" tour, Kealakekua: This was a very interesting, free tour of a working coffee farm, and we enjoyed sampling the many different blends.
  
The "Painted Church", overlooking Kealakekua Bay
We were told that Father Velghe, who erected this lovely little church in 1899, used regular house paint to
paint the scenes that adorn the interior of the church. It is said that, in those days, few Hawaiians could
read, so he opted to teach them through his pictures.
    
And now for some highlights from our favorite snorkeling spots
Unfortunately, we didn't get to snorkel at as many different places as we'd hoped. We checked out several
of the ones most recommended but, while we were on-island, there was a south swell which created a lot
of chop and poor visibility. We were not to be deterred, however - avid snorkelers as we are - and repeatedly
checked on the conditions at the various locations we wanted to try. Perserverence paid off, and we were
able to get some quality snorkeling in - just not as varied as we had originally planned.
Kahalu'u Beach Park
We chose this for our first Big Island snorkel, primarily because it remained fairly calm - even when other areas
were rough. It's a popular park, thus fairly crowded, but we still enjoyed it. There wasn't a whole lot of
healthy coral, but there was a nice variety of colorful fish and, best of all, a Green Sea turtle. (I do SO love sea
turtles.)
 and it was rough going (literally) over the basalt! Some of the new friends we met  
Lantern Toby Puffer
Ornate Butterflyfish on left - Pacific Sailfin Tang on right
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Yellowtail Coris Wrasse
Moorish Idol
Highlight of the day!!!
Kikaua Beach Park: This idyllic cove is located within the confines of the Kuki'o Golf Resort. You need to
stop at the gate and get a day pass, but the guards were always very friendly and helpful. Just be sure
to arrive early enough (0900ish) to secure one of the 27 visitor's parking spots. By the way, I dubbed this
snorkel spot, "My Happy Place" - enough said.
Easy entry. Short paddle over sand, out to the rocks where we found some nice coral and lots of vibrantly-colored
fish. Oh, and the beach has a nice restroom with outdoor showers.
   Orangespine Unicornfish on left - Moray eel on right 
Surgeonfish following Redlipped Parrotfish (female)
Convict Tang and Blue/Black Tang
Crescent Wrasse
JOY!!!
SO nice to be able to wash the salt and sand off our
equipment - and us - as soon as we got out of the water
Waialea Beach ("Beach 69" - in reference to the # that used to be on the
telephone pole adjacent to the parking lot). A popular beach with the locals, this pretty,
tree-lined cove is well-maintained, and there is some nice snorkeling out around
the rocks. (We enjoyed a nice morning snorkel here, but unfortunately the wind
picked up after awhile, and we had to head in before we had our complete "snorkel fix".)
  
Manybar Goatfish with Yellow Tang
 Reef Triggerfish on left - Lagoon Triggerfish on right  Carlsmith Beach Park: Approximately 10 minutes from downtown Hilo, this beautiful little park and lagoon seems to be a popular spot with the locals. The cove is quite protected, which makes for a nice calm snorkel, and it's reportedly often frequented by turtles. When we visited it had been pretty windy, so the water was quite murky.  My daughter and I snorkeled there in spite of the poor visibility and, as she had yet to see a turtle, she was so excited to see some swimming in one of the little lagoon pools.  She just quiety stood at the edge of the pool while one swam within feet of her.  
And THEN, as we were snorkeling back across the main part of the lagoon, we rounded a large boulder and
found ourselves nose-to-nose with the biggest sea turtle I have ever seen! He must have been an old timer
because he was almost as long as we were and we're each 5'2"! What a thrill! We backed off as quickly as
we could, but he didn't seem at all fazed by our encounter :)
Kapoho Tide Pools: Over the years, my husband and I have snorkeled many special places in our travels,
but have never experienced anything like the Kapoho Tide Pools; such a unique phenomenon! AND, to be
able to enjoy them everyday - just a few steps from the house where we stayed - was just incredible!
We snorkeled them at least once a day during our week-long stay, and there was always such a variety of fish and coral to observe and photograph - simply delightful!!! 
On the balcony of the Coral Pool House, getting ready for our first snorkel in the Kapoho Tide Pools.
For those of you who are curious about our outfits: Over the years, we have managed to fine-tune our gear
to suit us perfectly. We both wear Lycra "skins" (like full-body rash guards) under our 2mm shorty wetsuits.
The "skins" keep us from getting sunburned, and protect us from critters like jellyfish. The wetsuits provide
us just enough warmth (yet not too much) to allow us to stay in the water as long as we want to. I also wear
lycra socks so I don't get blisters from my fins, and my husband wears a lycra "dew rag" to keep his head from
getting sunburned.
In the above photo you can see my Triboard Mask - which I LOVE! It doesn't fog, and it doesn't leak, and I can
just breathe normally through my mouth AND nose. My husband has a traditional snorkel and a mask with
lenses to match the prescription of his eyeglasses.
Yes, we do get some stares, and some funny looks, but we don't care: we love to snorkel, and our getups allow
us to do so to our hearts content :) 
HT snorkeling in the tide pools. The green house in the middle is the "Coral Pool House", where we stayed.
      I think these are Brassy Chubs (feel free to correct me). Somebody must have ordered everyone to line up single-file for photo on right :)    Peacock Grouper   
Sea Quest Snorkel Boat Tour: This was an absolutely fabulous day! Our 5-hour trip took us to 3 snorkel sites,
including Honaunau Bay and Kealakekua Bay, which were outstanding. Captain Kendra was just great: funny,
helpful, and very knowledgeable about the area and the sea critters. We were blessed with a fairly calm day,
great visibility, and beautiful undersea gardens to explore that were teeming with a kaleidoscope of fish.
Our "sister boat" - same as ours
 
Captain Cook Monument - Honaunau Bay
  
Orangeband Surgeonfish Achilles Tang
More Convict Tang
Both Photos are of Black Durgon. When closer to the surface-light, their colors turn from black to bluish, with stripes   
Yellow Tang with Whitebar Surgeonfish
Before we knew it, our 3 weeks had "flown" by, and it was time to bid
ALOHA to the Big Island that we'd come to love
Our last glimpse of Hawaii as we lifted into the clouds
We are so thankful to have had this opportunity to enjoy three glorious weeks on the Big Island
Time to explore the diverse landscape and flora and fauna
Time to learn more about the history of the island and its people.
We returned home with aloha in our hearts - feeling rested, peaceful, and SO very blessed!
MAHALO NUI LOA
Linda & Howard
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